Field Notes from Copenhagen
Copenhagen is a life-size city with best of Berlin and Stockholm serving inspiration, urban culture, art and design, and above all an atmosphere that can’t be found anywhere else. It’s more relaxed than other cities and more human in character and scale. Before you know you’ll be cycling among locals around the city.
Nørrebro lives up to its vibrant reputation as Copenhagen’s multicultural neighborhood. It’s beyond beautiful how different cultures, restaurants and ethnic grocery shops merge seamlessly, not to mention people living in the area. Here you can find anything – I mean anything – from crazy neon-dyed wigs to best oysters in town.
First of all, like locals, you need to have a class of good wine. Natural wine is a huge thing among Copenhageners and in a way, it kind of suits with their easy-going, down-to-earth attitude; with natural wine things are pretty easy, no reeling off facts about grapes or the various vintages, but more about enjoying the taste and drinking relaxed.
Jump off the bike on a small cozy street teeming with locals eating and drinking outdoors and you’ll find a restaurant called Pompette, a trailblazer in bringing natural wine to the people with very decent price and easy-to-choose menu. Whatever your mood is choose red, white, orange, rose or bubbles. Usually people will end up to taste them all while chatting with the people sitting next table. Atmosphere couldn’t be more laid-back thanks to friendly staff and simple environment, which gives spotlight to wines. And as the day goes on and the bubbles make you giggle, you know you’ve experienced Pompette – which means tipsy by the way.
The smell of freshly roasted coffee coming from around the corner is worth remembering – and worth queuing first thing in the morning. Like locals, you should know, that Andersen & Maillard coffee roastery and bakery makes your day ti gange bedre.
While in the neighbourhood, don’t forget to dive in to nicely priced fashion world. You know the feeling when the must-have designer piece from previous season catches your eye. Elmegade, Egegade and Birkegade form a triangle which offers secondhand surprises and designer samples. Other vintage treasures can be found in Studiestræde, near to Copenhagen University. And don’t forget Ganni Postmodern in Christianshavn where you can shop past collections, alongside samples and exclusive runway pieces with very decent price.
On a way to Vesterbro treat yourself with Frederiksberg’s hidden gem, Bistro Anarki. They say Copenhageners are friendly and funny, well here you can find a staff which is beyond that with interesting food and wine recommendations. By the way Anarki just made it to the Star Wine List of The Year in Denmark.
No Vesterbro without Kødbyen, right? This sprawling complex was once Copenhagen’s meatpacking district. Today it’s a playground for the urban culture with still a couple of butchers on-site, but most of the buildings have been turned into restaurants, clubs and galleries. Outdoor parties and a vibrant nightlife guaranteed.
For the beer go to WarPigs. There are more than 20 beers on tap, most of them home brewed. For the food try the classic one, Kødbyens Fiskebar – but remember to make a reservation or prepare to wait a bit. As the name says restaurant is all about fresh fish and seafood without forgetting good wines. The atmosphere is informal and the interior is quite rough, but in that good Danish way. Just like the attitude of the locals; focusing on the essentials – in this case for the good food and company – what else do you need? Except bike, because this is Copenhagen.